Eat, Drink + Be Merry. Food, Travel, Photography, Design + Music in Los Angeles and Other Parts of the Earth.

On the eastside of Los Angeles, it really isn’t difficult finding good latino food. There you’ll find Mexican tacos vendors and marisco restaurants (seafood), Salvadorean restaurants and iglesias (churches) dispensing the delicious pupusa and my favorite of them all, fish tacos. What’s not to be loved when you have a beautifully fried piece of fish, topped with crisp cabbage and pico de gallo, your choice of salsa and sweet, Mexican cream or mayonnaise held by a warm slightly-toasted corn tortilla. It’s the ultimate hot and cool snack.

Fish tacos have always been a favorite of Angelenos and if you ask them, they will each have their go-to joint for fish tacos. In East LA, there’s Tacos Baja Ensenada which serves huge battered pieces of fish worth every bit of your money. In La Puente and Baldwin Park, there’s also El Taco Nazo which I’ve never tried but heard great things about. In Los Feliz, there’s Joseph Cordova’s Best Fish Taco in Ensenada which serves some tasty fish and shrimp tacos along with funky salsas made with fruit. In Silver Lake there are three spots: El Siete Mares, Tacos Delta and of course, Ricky Piña’s fish tacos. At El Siete Mares (The Seven Seas), you can get really tasty fish tacos for only $1 on Tuesdays. Tacos Delta is known for their chilaquiles but since the Jaliscan family started offering fish/shrimp tacos, I’ve been seeing more and more people eating them. Ricky Piña started as a one-man-taco-stand and was an overnight success through the help of social media. He really changed the game in the Eastside as far as serving authentic Ensenada-style tacos and gained a huge following. And the fish taco scene only gets better again. I’d like to introduce a new addition to the Ensenada-style fish taco scene, Pescaderos de Ensenada of the Atwater Village farmer’s market.

Atwater Village is a neighborhood located just north of Silver Lake, east of Los Feliz and south of Glendale. It has been said to be the area where people from Silver Lake or Echo Park move to raise their family since it’s mainly neighborhood homes versus apartments. Also because Lo$ Feli$ is too expen$ive. With the addition of a farmer’s market and the amazing Proof Bakery, this area has become part of my morning routine on Sundays. Though the farmer’s market is quaint and miniscule compared to the Hollywood Farmer’s Market, I always find what I need and have a reduced chance of being trampled by the Stroller Mafia usually present in Hollywood. Food-wise, you’ll actually find enough to eat. I’ve been here enough times to know exactly what food odors will be present in the air. There’s Big Mista’s BBQ, where you’ll find smokey ribs and brisket. There’s a Salvadorean lady offering a wide variety of pupusas and refreshing jugos (juices). And there’s an Asian guy offering up some marinated grilled chicken. But on one of the Sundays, I smelled something new. Something being fried, but not like fried chicken. That distinct, light smell of hot oil and beer that could only be from one thing: fish tacos.

I walked up and was immediately greeted by this amiable gentleman named Pedro Montes. Before I could start asking him questions about his fish tacos he asked, “Would you like to try a sample of our Ensenada-style fish tacos?”  Who me?  Do I look skinny to you? Of course I’ll take a sample Mr. Costco!  He cut up a fish fillet and handed it to me on a napkin. “Go ahead and add some cream and salsa,” he said. I took a bite of the fish which was crispy and well-seasoned. I could tell he used my favorite fish used for fish tacos – basa. Basa is a farm-raised catfish native to the Mekong Delta area in Southeast Asia. This fish is also used by Best Fish Taco in Ensenada and Ricky’s Fish Tacos. It doesn’t have that sandy and gritty taste like most catfish and has a subtle sweetness to it that can only be tasted when the batter is light. I don’t like it when you can’t taste the fish in a fish taco (*ahem Rubio’s) or fish & chips.

I then asked Pedro, “Can you get angelito fish from Ensenada?” He smiled and right then he knew I was serious about fish tacos. “You know about angelito fish?” Though I’ve never tried it, I learned from Ricky Piña and Bill Esparza of Street Gourmet LA that the traditional fish in fish tacos is actually not a fish, but a type of shark native to the Baja waters called angelito. And I’ve been dying to try it. When I was in Ensenada years ago, I was too young to care that I was eating not a fish but a shark for breakfast. Unfortunately, I haven’t heard of any fish taco vendors driving down to Ensenada just to get that particular fish. But I thought I’d ask Pedro anyway.

I was reeled in by the samples. “Two fish tacos please!” Seeing that there were already a few pieces of already-fried fish, I asked for some cooked to order because I like maximum heat and crunch. I took the opportunity to hear Pedro Montes’ story. Pedro was born in Ensenada but his parents were originally from the Tequila region of Jalisco (about an hour drive outside of Guadalajara). He was raised on fish tacos and tells me all about the fish taco scene in Ensenada. Everyday, fisherman (pescadores) bring in their daily catch to sell at the Mercado Negro. The competition is fierce with over 25 different fish taco vendors selling fish tacos made with exactly the same fish and traditional frying-in-lard technique (manteca). I asked him then, how do vendors differentiate themselves. Do they do anything unique to the fish tacos? He declined and said, “No, when you’ve got fierce competition, you’ve got to split hairs and it all comes down to customer service.” He said many vendors will lure you in with free samples, throw in some free drinks or even offer you the “you don’t like, you don’t buy” deal. He said to me, “I believe in offering the best customer service and healthier options.”

Beautiful basa. Pedro does not use the traditional method of frying in manteca lard, but rather grapeseed oil which is healthier, more flavorful than Canola/vegetable oil and has a higher smoking point.

At Pescadores de Ensenada, you’ve got many toppings you can add to your fish taco. Though a traditional fish taco is angelito fish, cabbage, pico de gallo, salsa and mayonnaise, Montes offers a lot more for extra customer service points. In addition to the mayonnaise, you’ve got the slightly sweeter crema mexicana (Mexican sour cream), chipotle mayo, guacamole, red/green salsas and pickled habanero/red onions. The corn tortilla he uses is a brand called Diana’s which I think has great flavor for a tortilla. Pedro makes an excellent fish taco even though it is not fried in delicious, porky lard. Jeni and I could have easily eaten a third one.

But what I actually liked more than Pedro’s fried fish taco was what he calls his “naked fish tacos” (tacos encuerados). I really enjoy steamed meat tacos (tacos al vapor) and had to try these. Pedro takes the raw basa fillets, adds some Mexican seasoning (sazonador) and a few thin slices of habanero chile. He wraps them tightly in foil and his cooks heat them in a pan over the griddle for about ten minutes. The result is a nicely seasoned, fillet with all of its natural juices retained and it’s really delicious. Nice habanero kick too!

“Naked fish tacos” (tacos encuerados), awesome. Even more awesome if you yourself are eating it naked.

I’m really hoping one day Pedro will bring some angelito to fry up. Come say hello to this gentleman!

Pescadores de Ensenada
Owner: Pedro Montes
3250 Glendale Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90039
Sundays 9 am – 2 pm
Saturday 9 am – 2 pm (Downey Farmer’s Market on 2nd Street/Paramount Blvd.)

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At the end of the day, fish tacos are something I enjoy eating. Rather than bashing a restaurateur’s hard work, time and money saved up, I’ll point out the good things about each fish taco joint mentioned earlier. I believe in helping out those that deserve recogntion. We all have different tastes and you’ll just have to find the one you like best without putting a place out of a business. Right, Yelp? Just enjoy.

Ricky’s Fish Tacos, Silver Lake. Ricky is originally from Ensenada and one of the nicest guys and has been doing this for nearly 3 years. His fish tacos have a nice crunch and it’s always nice spending a weekend afternoon in his driveway location. Try his combo fish taco which contains both fish and shrimp. His crema mexicana is sweet and not too thick.

Pescadores de Ensenada, Atwater Village. Pedro’s best tacos are his fried and steamed fish. If you’re shopping at the farmer’s market, you’re in for a great snack. Grab a Mexican soda to go with this or one of the jugos from the pupusa lady right next to them.

Best Fish Tacos in Ensenada, Los Feliz. I like Joseph’s shrimp tacos more than his fish tacos. He also offers potato tacos now. He offers the sweetest crema mexicana for those that like that. When I make fish tacos at home, I make it slightly sweet like his.

El Siete Mares, Silver Lake. If you’re hungry and happen to only have four quarters in your pocket on a Tuesday, it is your lucky day.  Fish tacos for $1 is unheard of just try not to think about why it’s so cheap.  They are very good here.

Tacos Delta, Silver Lake. If you’re eating their chilaquiles here, make it a happy meal with a fish taco. The family that runs TD is super nice and they serve a good sized fish taco. The shrimp taco is worth trying too.

Tacos Baja Ensenada, East LA. If size matters to you, you come to TBE. The fillets are large, heavily-battered and tasty. They’ve been here for decades and are not going anywhere anytime soon.

Via Mar Seafood, Highland Park. On Wednesdays, you can get TWO fish tacos for $2.25 and they are tasty.

La Estrella Tacos #3, Highland Park. Just up the street from Via Mar is this place which is most famous for their al pastor tacos served out of a truck on York Blvd. But their fish tacos are huge and messy – in a good way.

La Cevicheria, Mid-City. Though not an official Ensenada fish taco, this Guatemalan family knows how to make a tasty fish taco using haddock. I like it here a lot.

*I’ve started a new section on this site called I Heart SGV not only to celebrate my obvious love for one of the best Asian enclaves for food in Southern California, but to keep you guys informed with the latest and greatest dishes it offers. San Gabriel Valley is extremely dynamic with its constant grand openings, ownership changes and chef departures. I’ve seen it happen in my 30+ years of living/eating in the SGV – what you enjoy one day can be completely different the next month. It only takes one person to mess up the food in the kitchen. Customer service aside, SGV is a wonderful, exciting, cash-only place to eat. This is time sensitive content, so I hope you’ll eat at the I Heart SGV places as soon as you can. Let’s eat!

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In San Gabriel Valley’s Asian restaurant scene, the rules, or lack of, are a bit different. There are no laws about having identical businesses within the same shopping center. You can pretty much find competing businesses within a few feet of each other and it’s no wonder that shops are closing down and opening up every few months. There’s no originality at times and there’s shameless, blatant plagiarism everywhere you look. When the once-unique tapioca pearl milk tea drink known as “boba” came to Los Angeles from Taiwan in the early 90′s, every one started copying it. The Vietnamese caught on to it and I’ve even seen it offer in Latino businesses. When the Vietnamese banh mi sandwich suddenly got attention, new sandwich shops were appearing almost instantly and overshadowed fast food chains like McDonalds. Things become mainstream very quickly in SGV. It’s competitive, tough, sad at times but its the wild west of the restaurant industry and how it is back in the Asian homeland.

An example of this “lawlessness” can be witnessed at the 300 block of Valley Blvd. in  San Gabriel Valley, what can also be referred to as the Dumpling Depot. If I remember correctly, there are now exactly five restaurants lined up next to each other that serve the most highly-coveted, juicy dumpling known as xiao long bao (literally “small basket buns”). Mei Long Village or Dragon Mark Inn (closed) may have been one of the first few places to offer delicious XLB, but the trend was soon spotted and each of those neighboring restaurants now offer XLB. Thus, the term, Dumpling Depot. To serious fans, a XLB is more than just a “dumpling” – it’s an experience. The filling for XLB consists of ground pork, vegetables and ginger. A cube of congealed, rendered pork fat is inserted into the center of the filling and then neatly wrapped in spherical form. The XLB is then steamed in a basket, usually on top of pieces of nappa cabbage which allows steam to perforate. But the magic doesn’t end there. Once it is steamed, that cube of pork fat takes on a new state – it turns into a juice or soup. But you can’t eat it right away or you will burn your tongue and mouth. Thankfully, the great health care plans of America treat XLB-related injuries. You have to let it cool off a little and at the right moment, eat the whole XLB in one bite with a little dip of Zhejiang black vinegar. The joy of having these pork grenades explode in your mouth is immeasurable. And in this plaza, the ultimate factor of success is based on one sole thing – does your XLB taste better than your neighbors?

On a weeknight, Jeni had a craving for XLB and we ended up at the Dumpling Depot. Although the places here may not be the best for XLB, we come here because they close pretty late. We started from the left side where Mei Long Village is located and began to walk along, like we were window shopping. Each of the places have large printed photos of their prized XLB and we eventually decided to try a place we haven’t tried before – a Northeastern Chinese joint called New Tasty Restaurant (民 俗 村，min2 su2 cun1, means “People’s Village). I believe this place replaced the once-popular Dragon Mark Inn (一 條 龍，yi1 tiao2 long2). It wasn’t empty and there were enough customers in there to let you know that the food didn’t completely suck.

We ended up ordering their beef noodle soup which is served with knife-cut noodles and of course, a basket of their XLB. Both were OK. The beef noodle soup was served warm and the noodles were a bit too starchy and chewy. The XLB was very dense and didn’t have that nice bite to them. The juice was adequate but lacked that rendered pork flavor. But what you have to know about the restaurants in SGV is that there are hidden gems on the menu. Although this restaurant is reeling you in with its printed photos of XLB and beef noodle soup, there’s more to be revealed. You either have to be able to read Chinese, go with someone who is familiar with this particular region’s food or like us, discover new dishes serendipitously. I’d skip both of these dishes and just order…

… the potstickers (鍋 貼, guo1 tie1). I always ask the servers at the restaurant what the Chef’s signature dish is and was highly recommended to try these. These are the long, rectangular style potstickers that I love. They are easy to grab with chopsticks and a lot of fun to eat. The first thing I like to do is take a bite out of the corner of the dumplings, and with a spoon or bowl ready in hand, tilt the juice out. I do this (a) to make it less messy to eat, (b) to check out the Chef’s skills and (c) because I’m bizarre. When I was in Shanghai, I was blown away by the XLB and potstickers, and ever since then, have used my experience with theirs as a litmus test for other dumplings I try. Looking at this photo, you can tell he’s incorporated the XLB magic “juice” into his potstickers. A fly would think its bathing under a waterfall in Hawaii. Mrs. Lu of Dean Sin World also does a great job with her juicy and flavorful potstickers, but they are not long and rectangular like New Tasty’s. These are excellent, juicy and the dough is rolled out perfectly. You don’t want the dough to be too thin nor too thick.

Another minute detail you may or may not regard is the crispy, “spiderweb” (credit for term: C. Lander) on the potstickers. This “spiderweb” is created by the caramelization of sugar and the combination of heated fat and possible usage of soy sauce. I’ve experienced this effect a lot when cooking in a non-stick pan. The “juices” during the cooking process don’t evaporate and end up clumping together into a solid, crispy taste. Thank you chemistry! Like Zorro leaving his “Z” mark, the Chef has gladly placed pieces of this “spiderweb” on top of our potstickers, further whetting our appetite (first photo). All in all, this is the chef’s way of showing you just how juicy his potstickers are.

On this evening, there happened to be two large parties of older Chinese men chowing down. Both tables had soup served in a black, clay pot that was very reminiscent of the ones Koreans use for soon tofu (순두부, soon doo boo) and ox bone soup (설렁탕, shul lung tang). Hmm, strange. I then looked at the menu and spotted Korean cold noodles known as naeng myun (냉면). I asked the waitress where the chef came from and learned that he’s from He Nan (河南, he2 nan2) which is relatively close to South Korea. The neighboring province of Shan Dong is directly across the way from Korea and it is where you will see the largest mix of Chinese and Koreans. You may have had the Chinese-influenced Korean dishes such as black bean noodles (자장면, ja jang myeon), sweet & sour pork (탕수육, tang soo yook) and seafood noodle soup (짬뽕, jjampong), which are heavily present in the Shan Dong province. It all made sense. The soup in the black, clay pot wasn’t soon tofu or ox bone soup, but rather a lamb offal soup（洋湯, yang2 tang1)! I asked the chef if I could try a little since we were pretty full. Like shul lung tang, this soup is prepared by boiling lamb leg bones for hours, adding lamb tripe and stomach and ladeling a tiny bit of house made chili oil. These soups usually come unseasoned and the jar of salt suggests you do your own seasoning. For those that love shul lung tang AND lamb “menudo”, this is for you. Not the sexiest dish to share on an eHarmony first-date, but I find it very comforting and tasty.

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*Pointers for New Tasty Restaurant*

1. If you want XLB, go to Happy Garden or Mei Long Village. This isn’t the New Tasty chef’s forté.

2. The potstickers come with a really good dipping sauce but you can always start your own dumpling party with a 1:1:1 soy sauce, chili oil and vinegar mixture.

3. I spotted some other tasty looking dishes like Dalu noodle, Hot Oil Wonton, Crispy Beef Cake, Dalian Style Sauteed Pig Feet, Cumin Lamb, Dalian-style Yellow Fish and Yellow Fish with Tofu. Check them out.

4. If you get the lamb “menudo”, remember to season it with salt otherwise you’ll be drinking bland, hot water.

5. Don’t be afraid to get up and ask other diners what they are eating. Mainland Chinese menus are extremely vague, confusing and sometimes erroneous in grammar.

6. Green onion pancakes are complimentary, no need to order them unless you want the version with beef in it.

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New Tasty Restaurant (New Taste Dumpling House on Yelp)
301 W. Valley Blvd. Suite 110
San Gabriel, CA 91776
(626) 282-5953
Mon-Sun 8 am – 3 am
CASH only

October 2011

I can’t remember the last time I had a drink that made me, unregrettably, say “That was amazing. May I have please another glass?” We’ve all had good and bad times when it comes to drinking. But usually, it’s the bad that will forever be ingrained. To this day, there are some liquors, like Goldschlagger and Southern Comfort, I will not drink because of painful memories. There was that time in college when I was guzzling down beer from a two-story bong and nearly blacked out at the end of the night. There was that time at least 30-40 guys would get together attempting the Century Club, in which you had to drink a full shot of beer every minute until you hit 100 shots – which most people failed in. There was that time in Ensenada when some Mexican guy poured nasty Tequila down my throat while blowing a whistle to the beat of terrible techno music. There was that time when I got stuck drinking horrible local moonshine made out of sticky rice in Laos for nearly an hour until I couldn’t take it anymore. Or even that time in Bogota when one shot of anise-flavored Aguardiente (Colombian “ouzo” or “absinthe”) became nearly a dozen and led to major confusion and silly disputes over a bill with a local. And what about those birthdays that ended with a blurry view of some bushes and an unpleasant permutation of your dinner from a few hours ago. All of these events resulted in empty promises to God that I would never again drink this much. This was the phase in many of our lives where you would simply drink for the sheer joy of senseless intoxication. And for a while, it seemed like it was the only way to enjoy alcohol – in careless debauchery and miserable regret. Frankly, I was pretty tired of it all.

But that was until I had my first true cocktail by one of Los Angeles’ best bartenders, Julian Cox. One that didn’t come from a cheap, anonymous bottle and a fizzy beverage hose. “Make me something please,” I said, “I don’t know anything about cocktails.” I watched as he carefully poured some fine whiskey into a jigger, all the way to the top where it was ready to spill over. He added a sugar cube into the glass and doused it with 5-6 drops of a dark liquid I would later know to be Angostura Bitters from Trinidad. With a stirring spoon, he lowered a crystal-clear cube of ice into the glass of whiskey and sugar and carefully stirred. And stirred. And stirred. And stirred. This tedious process lasted for at least three minutes, but not for one second did Julian yawn or take his eyes off his glass. He then grabbed a black plastic straw and with one finger plugging the end of the straw, siphoned a few droplets of his newly mixed elixir and tasted it. He let out an audible mmmm in approval. With an orange in hand, he took a peeler and meticulously carved out a pith-less peel. Holding the peel by the outside edges, he pinched the peel hard enough to spray mists of aromatic oils into the cocktail, but gently enough where the peel did not break. One swipe of the peel along the rim of the glass and it was tossed into the brown liquid. Julian handed me the drink that I ordered nearly ten minutes ago and I asked, “What in the world did you just make me?” “It’s called an Old Fashioned and it’s made with Pappy Van Winkle bourbon.” Pap-daddy what? I took a sip and at first coughed because I was not used to the fumes of whiskey. But my next sip, I really let the whiskey rest on my tongue so that the taste registered. The combination of the spicy whiskey, sweetness from the sugar cube, herbal spike from the Angostura bitters and orange peel oils was simply harmonious. Versus taking the drink down like a shot at a college party, I drank it slowly and let myself enjoy it. This was 2008 and it was a revelation.

From there, we were hooked with the amazing cocktail scene happening in Los Angeles. And no matter how many bars we checked out, it never got old. Every bartender had something unique to offer whether it be made with whiskey, gin, tequila, scotch or mezcal. The more we visited, the more we learned about cocktails and the more we got to know the styles of each bartender. We eventually started our own home bar and mix at home. Jeni even won a Summer cocktail competition at Drago Centro. And I eventually decided to document the many bartenders that put Los Angeles on the cocktail map. We thought to ourselves, it doesn’t get any better than this. But when you say things like that, you know what ends up happening.

And a few years later… we found ourselves standing behind a metal cage. Through the wiry boundary, we could see a beautiful, minimalist kitchen – no wait… a laboratory to be honest. There were about seven nicely-dressed bartenders. Some moving around looking for spirits in unmarked liquor bottles, some were measuring their pours like chemists and some engaging in their own rhythmic cocktail shake. There was no talking, none – like they were worker bees quietly humming to themselves. Our eyes grew as we watched the “chefs” send out their “dishes”. Some plated in a way that we had never seen before. We’re standing in the area known as the “Gallery”, a space with about 8 standing tables that can accommodate 18-20 people, while the main “dining” area can hold up to 70. We’re here with our neighbors and we are all very excited for the unexpected cocktails made by these bartenders. The waitress quickly corrects us by telling us that they are not referred to as bartenders, but as “chefs”. And in a moment, we would understand why. We were standing in The Aviary.

When I think of Chicago, I think about Alinea. I think about the $500 for two meal. And I think about the three months advanced reservation that must be made in order to eat there. What an expensive headache. What about Grant Achatz’s other concept, Next. There’s virtually no chance to get reservations unless you get lucky or have a few hundred dollars to offer to that greedy bastard selling the reservation on eBay. But if you’re in a situation like this, the next best thing one can do is try for the Aviary, a cocktail concept by Grant Achatz and his former sous chef at Alinea, Craig Schoettler. At The Aviary in Chicago, it certainly runs like a restaurant, only the main courses are in a liquid form and provide an experience not to be missed. Imagine the culinary artistry of Alinea re-purposed in liquid form. Achatz is known for his custom plate, dishes and “gear” used for his intricate plating and we would learn that that approach is no different in the cocktails served at The Aviary. If a Willy Wonka candy factory really existed, then we had to be standing in one of the rooms. The 21 and over one.

You’re allowed to incorrectly call them “bartenders” exactly three times. After that, you’re thrown out. Just kidding, right?

Our waitress Charlette came by and handed us the menu, which was as extensive as any standard restaurants. She explained that, like a restaurant, The Aviary offers a prix fixe menu for $45 as well as a full 7-course flight for $125 which included bar bites. The bird icons next to each drink are actually more than just a design aesthetic. They actually symbolize the complexity of each cocktail – the further away they are from the words, the more unique it is. Wonder where a pump & dump Gin & Tonic would fall in place. We decided to go with the 3-course flight for $45 which isn’t bad considering these days, craft cocktails start at $11-12.

The four of us made our selections and decided to put a little food in our stomachs first. There are ten different “bites” you can order. They range from $3-$6 and are ordered in sets of three. The biggest mistake I have to say is coming here on an empty stomach like I did. There was no way I would be making a meal out of this so I ran really quickly in search of a Chicago hot dog, anything really. But in this former meatpacking area of Chicago, there was nothing to be found except for the Publican which we would be at in a few hours. Charlette was nice enough to come back with some bread as a temporary sponge. The “bites” came and they were beautifully plated, like little tasty gems. The “bites” are so delicious that you will go poor making them into a meal.

Bay Scallop with Ceviche, Cilantro and Sweet Potato.

Foie Gras with pomegranate, gingerbread and charred onion. Crab with avocado, mango and almond.

Smoked Salmon with cauliflower, egg yolk and caper. Duck Rillette with pumpkin, cranberry and hazelnut.

Potato with custard, malt vinegar chips and chives. Wagyu with smoked paprika, pumpkin seed and yogurt.

The “bites” were easily some of the best hors d’oeuvres I’ve ever eaten. After eating these, we could only imagine how much more amazing a full dining experience at Alinea would be. Time to start working hard right now! We looked through the fence into the kitchen and could see that our drinks were in the way. All four of us, again, became really excited like we had just turned 21 that day. And now The Aviary experience begins…

Orange – Smoked Cinnamon, Lemon, Cynar and Tequila
This drink was very refreshing. Slightly smokey from the tequila but balanced by the usage of Cynar, which is an artichoke-based spirit, and smoked cinnamon. One of Schoettler’s techniques is making alcohol-infused ice cubes. They are cut precisely this size so that the dilution happens over a longer period of time, allowing the drink to maintain its integrity and flavor. You’ve seen how fast a drink becomes watered down when crushed ice is used. At The Aviary, there are 1-2 guys in the basement, whose sole jobs are to make these special ice cubes. This wouldn’t be the last time we had one of Schoettler’s cubes.

Quince – Bottled, Ginger, Pisco
This is Schoettler’s take on Peru’s signature drink, the Pisco Sour, and “brown-bagged” for good measure. Probably an ode to his younger college days. The drink arrived “brown-bagged” and allowed us to unwrap the liquid gift. This drink was so well balanced it tasted like soda pop and there was almost no hint of alcohol.

Horchata – Cinnamon, Rum, Tequila
As far as Chicago is from the Mexican border, you’ll be surprised by how strong their Mexican food scene. I’ve eaten at a few places and I can honestly say they are at the level of Los Angeles. I imagine Schoettler to be quite a fan of Mexican food and everyone knows that nothing completes a meal of tacos like a cold Styrofoam cup of horchata. This drink tasted EXACTLY like horchata, even a child could have drank this without knowing there was rum or tequila in it. And I loved the presentation. It was at this point that I started to understand what wanted Schoettler to emphasize: nostalgia and personality. I could infer from these two drinks that Chef is one, a brown-bagger and two, loves Mexican cuisine. I’d love to see if Craig can conjure up a liquid “Pad Thai”.

Cider – cinnamon, white verjus, apple brandy
This next cocktail we eyed since we first stepped foot into the Gallery. It’s a 6-inch-diameter cocktail aquarium called the “Porthole”. Looking at it, it really is a window to the makings of a genius cocktail, like looking at those plastic ant farm kits. Who doesn’t like cross section views?  The concept behind this “tea”, as Charlette referred to it as, is to be drunk in three different stages.

The reason for this is that the drink changes in flavor, color and intensity every 6-8 minutes. Most drinks become worse over time as they are diluted by ice or exposed to air. But Achatz and Schoettler amazingly reversed that theory. You can see that the cocktail is pretty much clear now, but by the last stage, the cocktail was a little bit more brown in color. I didn’t try much of it but my neighbor told me that the taste was different each time. Truly a beautiful concept.

Concord Grape with Angostura Orange, Port, Rum
Another cocktail concept using flavored ice. This time they came in the form of spheres. I took out a cube and was surprised to find that they tasted exactly as listed – angostura bitters and orange zest. The purple color comes from the port wine and the rum adds that nice smokey sweetness. Another refreshing drink that involves eating the ice spheres.

Chartreuse – Pineapple, Blueberry, Honeydew, Mint
I love Chartreuse, especially when its mixed with whiskey. But I have not had chartreuse as the base spirit in a cocktail because it is typically strong. Schoettler delivered his Chartreuse concept in a wine box filled with all sorts of herbal greenery. I felt like I was one with Mother Nature as I held this aromatic box. Because green Chartreuse (there’s also yellow) is a strong digestive, you don’t need to drink much of it. The genius flavored ice cube comes into play once again. This time, the Chartreuse cube is cut extra thick to prevent it from diluting too fast, which can ruin and overpower your cocktail. Each of the three drinks, pineapple, blueberry and honeydew were complimented by a Chartreuse cube.

Amaro – Rootbeer, Cocchi, Tequila
Things started to get even more interesting as Charlette arrived with the next cocktail, which came in two parts: a carafe and a glass filled with smoke placed upside down on a piece of wood. We all looked at each other and I could see Charlette’s excitement in telling us what this was all about. The cocktail consists of a house-made root beer that is in fact clear, not dark brown, and made with 13 ingredients including star anise, clove, vanilla and sarsaparilla. The chefs then take a piece of the whiskey oak barrels and burn it with a handheld torch until it is heavily smoking, covering it immediately with a glass to contain as much smoke as possible. Our very talented Chicago-based friends at Eat A Duck I Must have also used this technique on sashimi and it looks awesome. Charlette flipped the glass over, releasing all the smoke and quickly poured in the cocktail. This drink comes with no ice so that you can really taste the root beer, tequila and hint of bourbon barrel smoke. Genius.

In the Rocks – Demerara, Angostura, Bourbon
And then, we found the purpose in life. This is solely my thing, but whenever I check out a new bar, the first drink I will ask the bartender to make me is an Old Fashioned, the very same eye-opening drink that Julian Cox made for me. This is the most basic yet complex drink – ask any bartender. If they mess up on this, you can kind of gauge the skill level of a bartender. Charlette arrived with a glass with a ball of brown ice, which didn’t look so appealing. She stood there looking at us, waiting for some sort of reaction. I asked her, “Are you going to pour a spirit over this and let the flavored ice melt into the drink?”  She smiled and said, “No. Pick up the device and place it on the top.” My neighbor Justin fastened the device which was basically a wooden ring with a rubber-band and weight. Charlette instructed him, “Hold down the ring with one hand. Using the other hand, pull the weight back at least 6″ and let go.”  Justin pulled the weight back and we all looked at Charlette for one last assurance that this wouldn’t end up in a bloody mess. She nodded. One quick release and the weight snapped into the brown ice ball, and a beautiful liquid poured out of it, enough to fill up half the glass. Charlette then took an orange peel, squeezed a mist of orange peel oils into the drink, swiped the rim with the peel and dropped it in. “Here you go, an Old Fashioned.”  I took a taste of it and I couldn’t believe how delicious it was. An Old Fashioned that required no stirring. It was what you would call and Instant Old Fashioned. How inventive of them to use a syringe to inject the cocktail into a hollow egg of ice. I looked over at Schoettler through the wiry fence and gave him a nod of approval in which he smiled back. We had reached the end of the road and I was happy to go home on a high note.

The Master Chef, Craig Schoettler.

I have never been to Alinea but what I had heard from people that have is that Chef Grant Achatz isn’t so much about placing good food in front of you as he is providing an interactive and eye-opening experience. Chef Schoettler has successfully done all that with a liquid dinner and although this “dinner” was anything but affordable, I can honestly say it was well worth it. Jeni herself is quite a light weight but she was able to drink 3-4 cocktails. The cocktails here were extremely balanced with the intent of pleasing the palate and not sending you into hangover land.  For those that want to continue the search for liquor bliss can ask the staff if they are worthy of entering “The Office”, the bar downstairs in The Aviary which serves more traditional, but excellent cocktails. We had dinner reservations at The Publican so we were not able to visit “The Office”. Thank you to Chef Craig Schoettler and the wonderful Charlette for a truly amazing cocktail experience.  Thanks for reading.

Tips & Advice:
- Make reservations. We got turned down on a Friday night, but came back at opening time the next day and luckily got in.
- Ask for the standing “Gallery” area. It’s a lot of fun watching the chefs work.
- Eat a tasty Chicago hot dog or Italian beef dip before hand. Your savings account will thank you.
- Curiousity won’t kill you, ask your neighbors what they are drinking.
- Ask for the keys to “The Office” and continue the party.

Full Prix Fixe Menu from October 2011
Huckleberry – lemon, thai long peppercorn, gin
Honeydew – distilled lime, sparkling
Orange – smoked cinnamon, lemon, cynar, tequila
Quince – bottled, ginger, pisco
Amaro – rootbeer, cocchi, tequila
Concord Grape – angostura orange, port, rub
Vieux Carré – sweet vermouth, benedictine, cognac, rye
Sweet Potato – smoked paprika, orange, tequila
A Moment of Silence – barrel-aged, apry, averna, rye
White Russian – milk, ristretto, rum
Cream Soda – distilled, vanilla, rum
Cold Chocolate – ecuadorian chocolate, fernet, bourbon
Horchata – cinnamon, rum, tequila

Full Á La Carte Menu from October 2011
Hurricane – passion fruit, cranberry, seven layers, rums
Cranberry – orange, chervil, ginger, bourbon
Pear – sparkling, brioche, gin
2 in 1 – carbonated negroni, white lady, gin
In the Rocks – demerara, angostura, bourbon
Maraschino – barrel-aged, applewood, tequila
Cider – cinnamon, white verjus, apple brandy
Ginger – shiso, peychaud’s, vodka
Oolong – brown sugar, pistachio, pear brandy
Chartruese – pineapple, blueberry, honeydew, mint
Truffle – campari, sweet vermouth, gin
Blood and Sand – orange, cherry, sweet vermouth, scotch

Full Bar Bites Menu from October 2011
Smoked Salmon – cauliflower, egg yolk, caper
Brussel Sprout – goat cheese, dill, caraway
Bay Scallop – ceviche, cilantro, sweet potato
Crab – avocado, mango, almond
Duck Rillette – pumpkin, cranberry, hazelnut
Potato – custard, malt vinegar chips, chive
Wagyu – smoked paprika, pumpkin seed, yogurt
Foie Gras – pomegranate, gingerbread, charred onion
Apple – tempura, brie, thai long peppercorn
Chocolate – cherry, stout, peanut

The Aviary
953-955 W Fulton St
Chicago, IL 60607
(312) 226-0868
www.theaviary.com
Reservations: reservations@theaviary.com